2004 Barolo by Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

 “I began tasting the wines just after the harvest and have followed them regularly since then. Tasting these wines every six months or so has been an education, and it has been thrilling to watch their evolution. Quite frankly, I have never tasted young Barolos with this level of sweet, perfumed fruit and silky, ripe tannins. These are wines of extraordinary elegance, balance and finesse that may come as a pleasant surprise to readers used to the tannic behemoths of the past. Quality is outstanding from top to bottom. Readers will find everything from a number of superb entry-level wines to utterly profound luxury bottlings and everything in between. The vintage coincides with a growing sense of maturity among growers, especially those of the younger generation. A number of producers have made their finest wines yet.

As I have written in these pages before, the 2004 Barolos combine the sweetness of 2000 with the classicism, perfume and freshness of 2001. It is tempting to compare 2004 to 2001, two vintages which share many attributes. At a number of properties I had a chance to taste the vintages side by side. Today the 2001 Barolos appear to be more powerful, structured wines and they may eventually prove to be longer-lived. The 2004s, on the other hand, come across as more elegant and refined. A precise comparison is difficult because so many 2001s have begun to shut down while the 2004s are remarkably open at this stage although they too are likely to enter a closed phase at some point in the future. While both vintages are similar in terms of quality, I give a slight edge to 2004 for the remarkable finesse of the wines and the higher average level producers achieved.

The vintage itself was relatively uneventful in terms of weather…The summer was warm but not overly so. The last month of the season, always the most critical period, saw cool evenings bring relief to the daytime heat, precisely the conditions Nebbiolo needs to develop vibrant color, expressive aromatics, layered fruit and fine tannins. It is a vintage in which specific vineyard characteristics are accentuated to the fullest. The calm weather during the harvest afforded growers the luxury of picking fruit at the optimal level of ripeness…The near-perfect weather also caused the plants to unleash the energy they had held in store since having shut down during the torrid 2003.

The only problem with the wines is likely to be pricing... Barolo is not inexpensive these days, but the wines remain outstanding relative values among the world’s finest age-worthy and collectible wines.”

2004 Barolo Mosconi, Conterno-Fantino
Retail Price: $112.99              
Pre-Sale Price: $87.84 Savings: $25.15
94 Points Wine Advocate
“The 2004 Barolo Mosconi is the first release from this south-facing vineyard in Monforte, which the estate controls through a long-term lease. It is an impressively endowed, full-bodied Barolo with a multitude of tar, smoke, mocha, vanilla, mint and sweet dark fruit flavors that coat the palate with superb depth and persistence. As is usually the case with Barolos from this site, the wine is made in a distinctly powerful style that emphasizes fruit at the slight expense of aromatic complexity. That notwithstanding, it is a compelling Barolo. In 2004 the Mosconi contains fruit from only the oldest vines.”

2004 Barolo Sori Ginestra, Conterno-Fantino
Retail Price: $117.99           
Pre-Sale Price: $91.76 Savings:$26.23
96 Points Wine Advocate
“Conterno-Fantino have once again produced one of the vintage’s finest wines with their stunning 2004 Barolo Sori Ginestra, which is just as impressive in bottle as it has been on the several occasions I have tasted it from barrel. This explosive, heady Barolo bursts onto the palate with seamless layers of ripe dark fruit, black cherries, menthol, cinnamon, pine and minerals, revealing profound depth and richness. It offers superb length, gorgeous, sweet tannins and a finish that lasts forever. Although it is a surprisingly accessible Sori Ginestra at this stage, I expect it will close down at some point in the near future. Readers who have an opportunity to taste this wine in the next few months should not hesitate to do so. This is a remarkable Barolo in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.”

2004 Barolo Cannubi, Luigi Enaudi
Retail Price: $118.99           
Pre-Sale Price: $92.55 Savings:$26.44
92-94 Points Wine Advocate
“The estate’s classy, elegant 2004 Barolo Nei Cannubi is even more promising. It reveals a richly concentrated personality with the compelling perfumed inner sweetness that is the hallmark of this great vineyard. The wine offers terrific energy and structure, with gorgeous, silky tannins that round out the sweet, lingering finish.”

2004 Barolo Costa Grimaldi, Luigi Enaudi
750ml Retail Price: $106.99
Pre-Sale Price: $83.14 Savings: $23.85
1.5L   Retail Price: $252.99
Pre-Sale Price: $197.65 Savings: $55.34
91-94 Points Wine Advocate
“The 2004 Barolo Costa Grimaldi is a promising wine. This sweet, generous wine is endowed with an attractive plumpness to its fruit, with well-integrated oak and soft tannins that caress the palate through to the long finish. It offers superb balance, poise and harmony. Costa Grimaldi is made from the best parcels in Via Nuova vineyard in Barolo.”

2004 Barolo Brunate, Marcarini
Retail Price: $63.99
Pre-Sale Price: $49.41 Savings: $14.58
93 Points Wine Advocate
“Soaring aromatics emerge from the estate’s 2004 Barolo Brunate. Menthol, dark cherries, spices, new leather and licorice are all to be found in this generous, layered wine. Sweet, ripe tannins provide a lovely bookend to this rich, classic Barolo from the Brunate vineyard.”

2004 Barolo La Serra, Marcarini
Retail Price: $63.99
Pre-Sale Price: $49.41 Savings:$14.58
91 Points Wine Advocate
“Marcarini’s 2004 Barolo La Serra reveals floral aromatics and a candied, spicy quality to its red cherry fruit. Made in a linear, focused style, this taut Barolo offers outstanding persistence on the palate and refined ripe tannins. It is a lovely La Serra.”
Retail Mixed 6-pack: $584.94
Pre-Sale mixed 6-pack price: $454.11
Savings: $130.83

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